Go Hike a Bike

Ramblings of a Canadian Kid

Banff National Park, Great Fondue, and the Icefields Parkway – Week 2.5

I want to start off today by thanking the people that have subscribed to the blog! I don’t think a better word exists than ‘surprised’ as to how I feel that people want to read my content, but I couldn’t be happier. Some weeks it does take some motivation to sit down and actually get a blog done, but now that I have subscribers, I feel like there is so much more at stake! Can’t let the team down!

But really, thanks a lot. Once my brother gets around to making a brand logo, you’ll be the first on the mailing list for a sticker. Hopefully I’ll get that rolling one day! Anyways, let’s get on with it.

A quick recap from Week 2, Becca and I had just completed the Wasootch Ridge hike on May 11th, 2022, which can be read here: Calgary and Exploring The Rockies.

Spinning the Legs Through Banff and Canmore

So I’ll now be diving into the next series of adventures, starting the day after the Wasootch hike, with a 110km bike ride out from our Airbnb in Harvie Heights. Starting an activity from the front door is my favourite way – no drive, no gear prep in the car. Just walk out the door and you’re on your adventure.

110km ride through gorgeous country, Banff 2022

Our first stop on our way out of Harvie was the town of Banff. Part ski town, part bike town, full vacation town, and if you enjoy anything to do with mountains, this is the place to be. This was our first time in Banff, and we decided a commemorative beer stop was absolutely required!

Enjoying a beer in Banff with a Mountain View, May 2022

If you’re interested in the route file, take a look at the Strava: Banff, Minnewanka, & Canmore Climbing | Ride | Strava

Once in Banff, many people had recommended that we a) check out the Banff Fairmont and/or b) spend a night in the hotel. With us trying to vacation for a year we could only afford one of those suggestions, and therefore did a self-guided tour by bike around the grounds. The building itself is an architectural feat, a castle on the hill for all to look up to. The grounds are also kept immaculate, with well-kept paths running alongside the Bow River as it winds its way into Banff.

Banff Fairmont from the grounds, May 2022

The Fairmont also features a golf course on the grounds with a bike path that travels the entire perimeter. While Becca and I were on this path, we came across tons of animals such as elk, mountain goats, and a black bear and it’s cub! The cub and bear combination is one of the more dangerous bear situations to be in, making it a good enough reason to turn our bikes around the way we had come. These were the first bears we had seen on the trip, with many, many, many more to come. The hearts were definitely racing!

Lake Minnewanka

From the golf course in Banff, we cycled up to Lake Minnewanka, a lake about a 30 minute bike from Banff. This lake is known for its scenic mountain views, alpine temperatures, and many influencer photoshoots. So, of course we had to go.

Frozen Lake Minnewanka in May, Banff Cycling 2022

As shown above, the water was still mostly frozen with just the edges of the lake thawed, another example of the late winter departure theme of this trip. It was still an awesome place for a rest, as the hill climb to get to the lake was pretty relentless.

Sidebar, jumping ahead to a day after the bike ride, we actually drove into Lake Minnewanka for the sunrise. This proved fruitful, as while it was a cloudy morning, the morning sun on the mountains at 5am was an absolute treat.

Sunrise over Lake Minnewanka, May 2022

Climbing Gravel in Canmore

On our way from Lake Minnewanka, I dropped Becca off at Harvie Heights after a big 90km day for her and continued on into Canmore. A quick addition onto our Wasootch Ridge hike, on our way back to Harvie Heights we took the round about logging roads through Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. It was a stunning drive and well worth the extra time it took us in the car to get back home.

On the way down from the logging road that ran through Peter Lougheed, we descended this massive gravel hill from the trailhead of Ha-Ling Peak into Canmore. Anyone know where this is going? You may have guessed it, but FOMO strikes again (see the About the Blog for where I discuss my FOMO tendencies).

I knew that I needed to go put my name on that climb. It was gravel, it was steep, and I figured a lot of people would avoid a monster like this. Therefore, I could NOT avoid a monster like this. Becca was more than happy to miss this climb as a self-described Leisure Athlete (@katieburrelltv).

Three Sisters Parkway

This uphill section, called the Three Sister’s Parkway, consisted of 6.2km at an average grade of 5.7%, for a total of 392 metres of climbing. I started this uphill about 100km into my ride, making it a slow going slugfest. With only one chain issue, I am happy to say I made it to the top, placing just in the top 300 of the 800 people that have attempted that specific climb. I did not say it’d be pretty, but I’m just glad for the views at the top. And while I’m all for hiking my bike, I was able to make it to the top without having to resort to those desperate measures!

Views from top of Three Sister’s Parkway, Canmore, AB

On the way down the hill, within the bottom quarter, I almost bulldozed a group of about 50 runners running up the hill. Just goes to show you, no matter how strong or athletic you think you are, there are people out there running what you are biking. Absolute madness in my opinion.

I made it back to Harvey Heights for some tacos, and enjoyed an early and good night’s rest.

Sulphur Mountain

The next morning, Becca and I were up bright and early for the sunrise at Lake Minnewanka, then travelled directly to Sulphur Mountain on the other side of Banff. This is an iconic spot in Banff, as not only is Sulphur Mountain a hike but also a tourist destination complete with a gondola to the top of the mountain. At the top there are shops, different lookout points, a café, and visual history of the Banff area.

Descending Sulphur Mountain, Banff 2022

The Sulphur hike is about 5.5km to the top with ~650m of elevation gain. There is an option to extend this to a fire tower further up the mountain, but our numbers are from the parking lot to the building where the shops and café reside.

Beginning the hike at 7:30am meant the gondola had not yet started for the day. Bonus for us, we were one of the first people to the top before the crowds began to arrive off the gondola. To then counteract this bonus, clouds moved in on our way to the top and the views were quite obscured. You win some you lose some, the mountains don’t care!

Either way, we were still happy to knock the hike off of our bucket list.

Tell Me About the Fondue!

Okay! Sorry! I’ll get to it now!

In the heart of Banff sits The Grizzly House, furnished like a wild west theme park. They are known for their hot rock dinners and fondue. The meat selection varies from the usual chicken and beef to ostrich, rattlesnake, and alligator. A neat place to try some ridiculous things! I, for one, had no idea you could eat a rattlesnake!

Hannah and her brother Zach met us at The Grizzly House after driving in from Calgary, with Zach having flown in soon after we had departed Calgary. The four of us shared a hot bowl of cheese fondu, and the surf and turf hot rock. For those unfamiliar with hot rock, the raw meat gets placed on a heated rock surface that you cook at the table – think of other BBQ restaurants, just instead of an oil or gas grill, a heated rock at you service.

We finished the meal with fresh fruit, marshmallows, and chocolate fondue, of course. The restaurant was a very enjoyable and unique experience for myself, having never done a fondue restaurant or a hot rock before!

Johnston Canyon

Walking out of the restaurant, the weather in Banff had turned from overcast into a drizzle type of day. Yet still, a day in Banff is a day not to be wasted! Our group of four decided it’d be a good day for Johnston Canyon, hoping that the rain would keep the (other) tourists away. And we couldn’t have planned it better if we tried!

Johnston Canyon is an easily accessible walking path that leads to multiple waterfalls, rock formations, and icefalls all located inside a long canyon. There is a boardwalk most of the way, and the ease of access to the beautiful sights makes this a big tourist destination for all ages.

Lower Waterfall, Johnston Canyon 2022
Upper Falls, Johnston Canyon, 2022

And you can see why it’s popular! Who wouldn’t want to go spend a day?

Luckily the weather was just unpleasant enough that we had the place mostly to ourselves, and got some great pictures in the making.

We travelled back to Harvie Heights where Zach and Hannah were staying with us, made some white chili and called it for what it was – an exhausting day full of hiking and good food.

Castle Mountain Lookout

But the adventures in the beautiful Banff National Park do not end there. Up and at ’em early yet again, the four of us were on the road to Castle Mountain the next morning. Castle Mountain lives up to it’s name. Driving towards it on the Trans Canada Highway, a fortress seems to arise and dominate the horizon, with high and barren vertical peaks reaching up to the sky like battlements.

Hannah, Becca, Myself and Zach (Left to Right) on Castle Mountain Lookout, 2022

Sadly, it does take some mountaineering experience to reach the summit. We decided that the Castle Mountain Lookout, about halfway up the mountain, was a good goal for the day and were rewarded with impressive views that ventured all the way to the British Columbia border! Another highly recommended hike for anyone out in the Banff area.

And, just to scare the family a little bit:

Castle Mountain Lookout chilling, 2022

Lake Louise and the Icefields Parkway

Off from Castle Mountain, we jumped ship to Lake Louise for a quick stop on the sightseeing tour. Like Lake Minnewanka, the ice was still partially frozen, but it did not stop the crowds of tourists from walking out onto the ice and soaking their socks through their shoes. I swear I’m not talking about myself here.

Becca and I, Lake Louise, 2022

Due to the frozen lake and amount of snow at Lake Louise, none of the main hikes were open for the season. We did a quick tour inside the Fairmont, had a nice lunch in the town, and skipped along to Peyto Lake up the Icefields Parkway.

I had never travelled up the Icefield Parkway before, but that drive alone is a treat. We only made it as far as Peyto Lake, about 1/5th of the way up to Jasper. But that drive will remain on the bucket list for now, as the mountains, lakes and Colombian Icefields further up the road require a lot more exploration.

More snowy lakes, who can believe it?! Peyto Lake 2022

Overall, we had a very enjoyable time in Banff, and I think another month or two could have been spent in that area instead of the 4 days we planned out.

Closing Thoughts

I started way too hot with thinking I’d be able to get 1 week’s worth of content into each blog post. These above stories just came from only 3 days of our travels! So either a) I’m putting way too many useless words down on paper, or b) I have too much content to fit a whole week in one blog post. I’ll let Week 3 decide when we get there, which sees our travels continue into Revelstoke, BC – AKA, we finally make it to British Columbia! We definitely weren’t rushing, as you can tell with all the stories in stunning Banff and Alberta.

Thanks for staying tuned, hoping you’re all staying cool in this heat!