Sitting at 11,249 feet, or in Canadian/the rest of the world terms, 3,429 metres, Mount Hood is the state of Oregon’s tallest mountain.

“Tallest Mountain” is a funny way of describing an active volcano. The last major eruption from Mt. Hood occurred in the 1700’s, but the communities surrounding the mountain are on alert that it could happen again at any time.

With this being a Destination Spotlight, I’m yet again jumping ahead in my adventures to showcase a hike that Becca and I just completed between Thursday, September 22nd – Sunday, September 25th. The last destination spotlight I did was Meager Creek, the Most Active Valley in Canada – Destination Spotlight, which if you haven’t by now, take a read!

We hiked a total of ~66.5km over 70.5 hours of elapsed time, spending 3 nights in the backcountry campsites along the Timberline Trail. That’s quite a a bit of information to unpack, so let me break it down a little better.

Planning the Timberline Trail

Becca and I are currently making our way south through the West Coast of the United States. We are hopping between Airbnb’s and campgrounds, spending the weeks with an internet connection, and spending our weekends in the “wild”.

Our last Airbnb stay was in Portland, Oregon. We hadn’t put much thought into our weekend plans, so we started reviewing any campsites around Mt. Hood or further south. Our goal is to eventually make it to California and the desert, but with no set dates in the future planned, we are able to take our time and explore.

When searching the area around Mount Hood, we found a few multi-day hike options that piqued our interest. While researching these options, we concluded that the Timberline Trail was the hike for us, and we began to plan.

Overview of the Timberline Trail

The Timberline Trail is a footpath that runs circularly around Mount Hood. As stated above, this trail is about 66.5km long, and affords 360 degree views of the mountain. Over the length of the trail, the stated elevation gain is about 3,152 metres. This climbing is mostly over ridges and out of different valleys on the route. The summit requires mountaineering skill, which we currently don’t possess, so that was off the table for us.

The highest point reached on the Timberline Trail is about 2,230 metres in elevation. This is nearly 1,200 metres below the summit.

The trail boasts multiple backcountry camp options. Off to the side of the trail, there are many different flat campsites that you are able to pitch a tent at. Only slight regulation persists for where you camp (no meadows) and the Leave No Trace rule applies (pack out what you pack in, basically). There is only one campsite throughout the entire 66km that has a composting toilet, while the rest of the route is all natural. This campsite is also the only potable water on route, aside from the Timberline Lodge.

Day 1 – Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls

On Thursday, September 22nd, we had made our final gear stop at REI, filling up on backpacking meals and other necessities for the trip. If you’re unsure what REI is, picture the American version of MEC (Mountain Equipment Co-op). We are now members at both, apparently!

Becca and I then drove from Portland to the Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood, a 1.5 hour drive.

Timberline Lodge is an awesome destination. It is an old-school lodge used for both winter and summer activities taking place on the mountain. The history of the Timberline Lodge is immense, as the building was put together in 1937 and has had many momentous occasions held both within and outside its walls. The exterior also stars in the first few scenes of the famous “The Shining” movie.

On the day of our arrival to the lodge, where we would be parking our car for the hike, the mountain air was thick with fog. So thick that we had no inclination of the views from the lodge, but more on that later.

Starting the Timberline

After signing the permit to hike the Timberline Trail, we set off into the mists. The first maybe 50 metres of this trail is an uphill pavement section and my body did not feel anywhere near ready for what I was about to do. Truthfully, I almost turned around. If 50 metres felt tough, I couldn’t imagine how the next 66.5 kilometres were going to feel.

But I also knew Becca wouldn’t accept turning around at this point, so I kept my mouth shut and figured it’d get better. It always does, right?

We got away a little later in the day than expected, departing the lodge around 2:30pm after doing a final refill of our bottles and using the last plumbing we’d see for a few days. Our plan was to hike about 6-8km before settling down for the night, as with this time of the year, the sun sets around 7-7:30pm (a sad reminder that the summer is ending).

We ended up doing about 15km the first day in the span of about 4 hours. The trail was smooth, with only one river crossing. The Timberline Lodge start point is at a middle point of elevation for the trail, so luckily for us the beginning of the hike was all downhill. We were moving fast on our fresh legs!

Day 1 – Highlights

With the fog persisting for the entire day, we were not afforded many views of Mt. Hood. But the trail itself was awesome.

A portion of the Timberline Trail that runs around Mt. Hood is also part of the PCT, or Pacific Crest Trail. The PCT runs from Mexico to Canada up the west side of the USA. Becca has a dream of one day through-hiking that entire trail. Seems like a lot from my end, but all the power to her! I will admit, it WAS a cool experience to hike a portion of the PCT that was connected with the Timberline Trail, but a 5 month hike might be too much for me.

We were hiking at quite a high speed to reach a good campsite before dark. The fog and clouds had lifted in some spots around us to reveal rays of light shining down on portions of the mountain and valleys, creating epic scenes of waterfalls and rivers, along with the exposed rock. Even though we did not see the summit or the peaks, the views were incredible.

The only negative to this first day was around 6pm, at this point hustling downhill to where our campsite should be only a kilometre ahead, I was attacked by a couple ground wasps. It must have been an accidental disturbance of their nest, but all of a sudden I felt bugs flying around my calves, and then two almost simultaneous stings, one on each leg.

Thankfully they flew off soon after, and we resumed the journey. Me, being a man, complained about it to Becca for the rest of the night until the morning where the stings had died down and I almost forgot the event even transpired. What a start!

Day 2 – Ramona Falls to Elk Cove

We packed up camp and departed around 9am for our second day of hiking. We had pitched camp close to Ramona Falls, a main attraction along the Timberline Trail. Coming across it early in the day was a neat experience, as aside from two older gentlemen refilling their waterskins, we had the falls to ourselves.

These glacier-fed falls still had an abundant amount of water flowing for it being the end of the summer, when flows have usually either dried up or slowed down. But it was an awesome sight and with the fog having lifted, we were excited to see the peaks and glaciers that this water flowed from!

Day 2 – Highlights

The trail out of the valley of Ramona consisted of hiking through beautiful forests of firs and pines. After climbing through the forest, we were rewarded a glorious view of Mount Hood in the late morning sun. Absolutely stunning, standing tall and proud, the mountain is incredible. Glaciers and water run-offs can be seen along with the ridges leading up to the peaks. No other words can describe it but epic.

And this is how we spent the rest of Day #2. Slowly winding around the mountain, taking in slightly different views at each lookout we arrived at. We completed about 20km on day 2, a long and tiring but worthwhile day. A new plan was forming in our heads, to drop our hike from 4 nights, 4.5 days to 3 nights, 4 days, and we were intent to reach that goal. Spending a night at the Timberline Lodge seemed to be a good reason to speed our hike up, especially after covering so much ground on Day 1.

Day 2 also showed remnants of the Dollar Lake Fire, a massive forest fire that occurred in 2011, covering 6,200 hectares of land. This fire left remnants of white tree trunks behind, an eerie deadness to the area even after 11 years of re-growth.

Jack, a fellow traveler we fell in step with, gave us good insight in the surrounding area. Listening to his mountaineering stories of summiting Mount Hood fed our hunger to get into the sport of mountaineering. He also detailed out the mountains rising in the distance, where we could make out Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams on the horizon. We enjoyed our time with Jack, but sadly came to a fork in the road at a stone shelter and split off from his path.

Becca and I eventually arrived in Elk Cove, a backcountry campsite that proceeded to fill up as the afternoon wore on. As usual, after setting up camp, we had a dehydrated meal and spent the rest of the night taking in the surroundings, watching the sunset and reading our books. A pleasant way to spend the evening surrounded by nature.

Day 3 – Elk Cove to Newton Gap

Another big hike awaited us on Day 3. After just completing 20km on Day 2, we decided another 20km day would do the trick. Just in case we weren’t in rough enough shape already.

We set out from Elk Cove around 8:45am, getting more efficient at the morning camp routine (dismantling the tent, making coffee and oatmeal, stove prep, packing up everything into the packs). We had heard this day would provide views of the Mt. Hood ‘moonscape’. While we could only haphazard a guess at what that could mean, the truth of it blew us away.

After climbing up and out of Elk Cove, the trees begin to thin until there are none remaining. Replacing the trees are rocks, of all sizes. Kilometres on kilometres of rocks. The path winds up and down these valleys just filled with rocks, looking like something you would see on the moon.

While mountains may look stationary, rocks tumble down the sides every day, accumulating in the flatter areas around the mountain. Some of the trail was actually covered in larger rocks, signs of the recent activity around the mountain.

Day 3 – Highlights

There were multiple highlights on Day 3. There were a ton of waterfalls and streams that needed to be crossed, some of them flowing quite quickly and heavily. These are always fun to figure out the “right” path across, to try to not get your feet and shoes too wet! Thankfully, we were in the dryer seasons. In the spring, with an increased snow melt, these streams can rise to thigh level, creating a very dangerous crossing.

Also, the Timberline Trail is a big destination for trail runners. In Day 3 alone, we saw more than 20 runners on the trail. It was a Saturday, probably the busiest day of the week for the trail, but to run it?! They are all attempting to complete the trail in one day, and the best time of the loop currently sits at 7.5 hours. 7.5 hours, for a 66 kilometre trail. These Americans can run!

Another highlight was making our turn from the North side of the mountain towards the East side of the mountain, where Newton Gap rests. Timberline Lodge, our start, was on the South and we were doing the full loop counter-clockwise. As we rounded the mountain towards the East side, we were able to make out Mt. Jefferson along with another mountain called the ‘3 Sisters’ way off in the distance.

Arriving at Newton Gap was like arriving at any other rocky valley stream. Fast flowing, but there were tent campsites all over the rocky area surrounding the stream. We found a nice spot in the forest, just outside of the valley, and enjoyed our evening listening to the water rushing by.

Day 4 – Newton Gap to Timberline Trail

Our final trail day! With only about 12km remaining, we quickly cleaned our campsite and were out on the hike at 8:15am. Since we were on the East side of the mountain, I finally got a good sunrise to wake up for. Definitely worth it.

The excitement was high, but this day was still quite the slog. Up and down hills and valleys, and the whole time the thoughts turned to a nice hot, juicy burger at the end of it all. Today was the day we also had our hardest river crossing, although we passed it in the morning before the water levels rose too high.

Interesting note on that: the water levels rise throughout the day as the sun melts more and more of the glacier during the hotter periods of the day!

We had come to know a few good people on the trail, including John and Paul, both around 65 years old. These guys basically kept pace, if not were faster, than Becca and I. We had a great time hearing their stories from previous hikes and adventures they had done together back in the day. Paul had actually through-hiked the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) back in 2013, and he relayed a story about how “I had to do 56 miles of hiking in one day to celebrate me being 56 years old”.

For reference, our biggest hike day on Mt. Hood was about 20km, or 12.5 MILES. Meanwhile he had completed a 56 mile, or 90 kilometre day! The guy can hike!

The beauty was still astounding on Day 4, but we were happy to make our way into the Timberline Lodge to use proper plumbing at the end of it all. We said our goodbyes to our new friends, and decided we would spend the night in the Lodge itself! Treat yourself, right?

The Timberline Lodge Stay

The Timberline Lodge overnight was incredible. After sleeping on the ground the previous 3 nights, sleeping on a comfortable bed with fluffy pillows really makes you feel on top of the world. And, you are on top of the world at the Timberline!

This lodge is 1,700m up the mountain. The views it provides of the surrounding Oregon wilderness are beautiful. It is situated so the sunrise and sunset are both visible, bathing the rolling hills in oranges and purples.

They also served up a hiker-coveted breakfast buffet, the source of much conversation among other hikers along the trail. Becca and I can add our review, it was worth every penny.

So in the end of it all, this was our fourth night spent on Mount Hood, before we flitted off to Eugene, OR and some “Premium Outlets”. A cool thing about Oregon, no sales tax! Time to get some new shoes after already wearing through my trail runners the last few months.

Thanks for reading, I hope you enjoyed the Mt. Hood destination spotlight!